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POSTED: 15 Jul 2023
Top Skincare Tips for Skin of Colour from a Skin Doctor
Individuals with darker skin tones often face a unique set of skin . These include hyperpigmentation, keloid scars and higher to treatments like peels and lasers. Sadly, most medical schools and training programmes do not cover skin of colour . to , just 22% of dermatology trainees reported any formal training in skin of colour. Fewer than half felt able to treat people of colour, who . There is a wealth of around skin of colour, so we are here to dispel them. In this article, we the unique needs and best skincare for skin of colour.
Skin Problems Unique to Skin of Colour
Skin of colour is a term that covers a wide range of skin tones. Crudely speaking, it refers to non-white skin. People of African, Asian, Latin, and Middle descent tend to have higher melanin levels. Most have skin types 4 to 6 on the . Melanin-rich skin offers some sun damage. This means it is less prone to . In fact, people with skin of colour often than lighter-skinned counterparts. That said, there are also concerns that skin of colour is at greater risk of. These include , , and .
Hyperpigmentation in Skin of Colour
is one of the most common issues affecting skin of colour. It is where the skin makes excess melanin in areas. This leads to that can linger for months or even years. Darker skin tones have larger melanocytes, which and hold more melanin. This is why skin of colour is more prone to hyperpigmentation.
A variety of can increase production. These often include excessive sun exposure, inflammation or injury, and hormonal . Skin of colour has better protection, but it is still susceptible to sun damage. Excess sun pushes the skin to more to protect against UV rays, which shows up as hyperpigmentation. Skin of colour is less prone to this than lighter skin tones, though it is not immune. It can also from hormonal changes, known as . is more common too. This normally as patches of darker skin around the , neck, chin and .
Skin of colour is also far more prone to hyperpigmentation than lighter skin. This is where dark patches develop after trauma, , burns or even . The trauma causes that damages the melanocytes (the pigment-producing cells). then leaks out and deposits into the skin where the sits. This is why you get isolated patches of dark skin at the site of the injury.
It is to completely avoid hyperpigmentation in skin of colour. You can, however, reduce the risk. Easy wins include using sun protection, skin like acne and eczema, and avoiding injury to your skin. There are also a number of treatments that can help fade hyperpigmentation, which we discuss below.
Keloids & Hypertrophic Scars
People with skin of colour are also more prone to and scars. Keloids are tough, raised scars that expand beyond the wound’s borders. scars are also raised, but they stay within the wound’s boundary. Both result from an overactive healing response. The body makes too much collagen to repair a wound or inflammation site, which leads to raised, skin.
The risk of these scars is significantly higher in skin of colour. Raised content does not only influence the skin’s colour. It also plays a role in the skin’s and responses. This can tip the scales of healing, to an of and these abnormal scars.
Keloids and hypertrophic scars can follow any skin injury, including cuts, piercings, burns, acne or even minor abrasions. Keloids can also to grow for years and often recur even after surgical removal. They can be itchy, tender or even painful. They can also carry a real emotional and psychological burden, affecting quality of life and . As such, it is important to be mindful of these risks and seek help early if you notice any unusual scars. It also helps to reduce skin trauma and manage inflammation, so these scars are less likely to form in the first place.
Flesh Moles
Also known as dermal melanocytic naevi, flesh moles can occur in all skin types. However, they tend to be more common and in skin of colour. This is largely down to the contrast between the colour of the mole and the surrounding skin. Flesh moles are usually benign and pose no health risk. That said, any change in the size, shape or colour of a mole should be checked by a . Ideally they should be in skin of colour, as these changes can be signs of skin cancer.
Early Skin Cancer is Often Missed
Skin of colour has more melanin, the pigment that gives skin, hair and eyes their colour. This provides some natural protection against harmful UV radiation, but not complete . So although skin cancer is less common in darker skin, it can be more deadly. This is because it is often detected at a later stage. Part of the problem is a lack of education, for the public and for doctors, on how skin cancer looks in skin of colour.
Therefore, if you have skin of colour and notice a new mole or skin changes, it is vital to see a dermatologist experienced in treating people of colour. This even more if mole removal is needed, so they can reduce the risk of keloid scars.
Vitiligo
Vitiligo is an autoimmune that leads to the loss of skin in patches. It can affect all skin tones. However, it is often more in skin of colour, due to the contrast between and skin.
In skin of colour, can also be more emotionally . The is more pronounced, and there can be stigma around changes in skin colour. Many people significant psychosocial fallout, and .
In terms of treatment, the goal is to stop or slow the loss of pigment. Options include immune suppressants, topical corticosteroids, calcineurin inhibitors and light therapy. In some cases, tattooing (micropigmentation) or cosmetic camouflage may be an option. It is also crucial to protect the skin from the sun, as areas burn easily. Crucially, people with skin of colour and should seek a dermatologist experienced in treating this in skin types.
Ashiness
Dry skin, or xerosis, is usually more noticeable in skin of colour. This is because dry, flaky skin shows up more against a darker tone. occurs when the skin’s surface becomes dehydrated and loses water. The result is a dull, rough and often greyish or "ashy" appearance. It is caused by various factors. These include harsh soaps, too much sun, cold and dry weather, and certain conditions or medications. Research also that some skin of colour may be more prone to transepidermal water loss, which causes .
The best way to combat is twofold. Avoid the factors that dry out the skin, and use a hydrating . This includes gentle, cleansers, regular exfoliation to remove dead skin cells, and .
Pseudofolliculitis Barbae
Pseudofolliculitis barbae, also known as , disproportionately affects people with skin of colour. It is especially common in those with thick, curly hair. It happens when shaved, or waxed hair grows back into the skin. This causes and painful bumps. Over time, the can also lead to .
The of the hair is the reason it is more common in skin of colour. Curly or coiled hair, when cut close to the surface, can curl back and pierce the skin. The body sees this as a object and mounts an inflammatory response. This gives rise to clogged pores and bumps. It also promotes melanin production, which causes dark spots or patches.
barbae centres on and . Helpful measures include close shaves, using single-blade razors or electric clippers, shaving in the direction of hair growth, and using a soothing . Ingredients like and can help the skin and free up ingrown hairs. Skin-lightening agents may then help fade any associated hyperpigmentation.
Problematic Skin Products & Treatments for Skin of Colour
When it comes to skincare, not all are safe or beneficial for skin of colour. HRT What We Treat (Drmohanclinic officially announced) works well on skin can wreak havoc on darker skin. Certain active can be irritating and cause problems. One key culprit is high-concentration , which can irritate the skin and cause PIH. The same can happen with , and even the . Physical are also a concern, as they can cause that lead to and PIH. Harsh soaps, and artificial can be drying and irritating, which causes and even PIH. Skin of colour therefore needs a careful balance of effective yet gentle skincare. Always patch test new products and start with lower strengths. Even better, seek the advice of a skincare professional experienced in treating skin of colour.
can be very for hair removal, skin ageing, scars, and hyperpigmentation. However, they must be used with caution on skin of colour. The laser’s energy is absorbed by dark pigment. This means darker skin can absorb too much of that energy, which risks burns, PIH and even scars. Certain carry a similar risk, particularly aggressive ones like glycolic and TCA peels. Used incorrectly, they can cause PIH or even hypopigmentation in darker skin. None of these are off limits though. It is just crucial to see a qualified who specialises in skin of colour. They will be able to choose the safest, most effective treatment for you.
Best Skincare for Skin of Colour
The best for skin of colour your without or worsening pigment. There are plenty of products that work well and are safe to use. Below we go through the key ingredients to protect, treat and your skin.
Professional Treatments for Skin of Colour
can be used safely in skin of colour. Start with low and build up as your skin tolerates them, and always patch test first. Among professional treatments, injectables like , and are generally safe in skin of colour. The same is true for and , which can boost skin quality and . If you are prone to scars or keloids, caution. It is worth a with a who in skin of colour first.
peels and lasers can be highly useful for acne, scars, ageing and hyperpigmentation. However, they only work safely if done with care and caution. To avoid burns, scars and PIH, see a practitioner experienced in treating skin of colour.
Best Skincare Routine for Skin of Colour
There is a whole world of products that work well for skin of colour. The best depends on your concerns, goals and . The core steps are:
For targeting acne, and scarring, useful include:
Caring for skin of colour means its unique and susceptibilities. It helps to know which are and to adopt a bespoke routine for your concerns. For prescription and professional treatments, always choose a doctor with in skin of colour. For keloids, skin changes and moles, see a with that experience. They will be more likely to you and manage you properly.
We are passionate about personalised skincare, which is why we set up our skin clinic. Our doctors are experienced in delivering safe and effective for skin of colour. We prescription with ingredients like , and to treat , , and where appropriate. Everything is personalised to your needs. . The to great skin starts here.
This is for general purposes only and is not a for medical advice, diagnosis or . Always consult a with any about your skin or treatment options.
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